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BMWradios

How to install Bluetooth (BT) in the BMW Professional RDS radio

⚠️ IMPORTANT: You perform all modifications at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage or mistakes made during the process.

Items required for an easy & successful installation:

  • DIY Bluetooth kit for the BMW Professional RDS Radio
  • Solder, soldering iron, flux, IPA/PCB cleaner etc.
  • Torx T8 screwdriver
  • Small flat head screwdriver
  • Hot glue
  • Scalpel
  • Wire strippers & cutting pliers
  • Desoldering gun or pump (if you are doing the encoder replacement)

1. Remove the top cover of the radio using a small flat-head screwdriver (or a dental pick, as shown in the example):

2. The front panel is retained by two plastic tabs and the radio’s locking tabs at the sides. Retract the locking tabs fully using an M2.5 Allen key. Remove the tape deck flap lever, then release the plastic tabs while gently lifting the front panel upwards. Disconnect the connector and remove the front panel:

3. Undo the three T8 screws securing the tape deck mechanism. Gently wiggle the mechanism and at the same time, pull it upwards to disconnect its connector:

4. Undo 4x T8 screws securing the outer shell of the radio and then remove it:

5. Take the 2-wire connector and cut a few centimeters off the red and black wires. Slide the heat-shrink tubing onto the wires, strip the insulation from the ends and twist the wires onto the negative leads of the capacitors (marked with gray stripe on the capacitor body). Solder the connections, trim the excess leads and insulate everything with the heat-shrink tubing:

Apply flux to the marked two solder pads. Place a support under the PCB so it sits slightly above the work surface. Position the capacitor lead in the center of the pad, heat it with solder, and push it through the PCB. Repeat the procedure for the second lead.

Turn the radio over, trim the capacitor leads, cut the copper trace connecting them, and remove the R457 SMD resistor:

6. Carefully cut these 2 copper traces without damaging the adjacent traces, which are very close. You can verify that the cuts were successful by holding the PCB up to the light and visually inspecting the trace separation:

7. Measure and shorten the wires as needed, twist and tin the ends, then solder them to the marked locations. If you don’t plan to use the radio with MF steering wheel then you can leave the IB wire disconnected:

MF-Steering wheel control input

8. If you also ordered the hands-free microphone, route the microphone input cable through the rear heat sink of the radio. There is already a suitable hole for that. Connect the M+ and G, making sure not to mix up the colors, and insulate the connections using heat shrink tubing.

If the hands-free input was not ordered, the M+ and G wires will remain unused. These can either be removed from the connector or simply insulated and left unconnected:

9. Remove all flux residue from the PCB at the soldered areas:

10. Temporarily install the controller and position it so that it doesn’t touch or short out any components. Then reattach the outer shell and front panel and switch on the radio. If nothing appears on the display or the symbols are scrambled, then something went wrong and you’ll need to look for the issue. Go back to step 5 and carefully double-check all connections — most likely some wires were mixed up you forgot to make the necessary cuts:

If the radio turns on normally then go to your smartphone Bluetooth settings, search for available devices and pair with the ”Professional RDS”. Play some music and increase the Bluetooth volume level from your phone so it would match with the FM level, then there won’t be any noticeable difference when you later switch between these modes:

11. If you also bought preamp outputs with this kit then here is a guide of how to install them.

Secure the wires and the Bluetooth module with hot glue. Ensure that there is sufficient clearance for the cassette mechanism and that the glue and wiring do not obstruct any screw holes or the outer shell:

12. Reinstall the four T8 screws removed earlier to secure the PCB to the outer shell. Pay special attention to the screw shown in the image and ensure the wires are routed to the side so they are not damaged by the screw:

13. Clean the tone head and re-install the cassette mechanism:

14. If you did not purchase the volume regulator encoder with this kit, skip this step.

To access the encoder, the front panel must be disassembled. The faceplate is secured by four plastic retaining tabs at the corners, four heat-staked plastic posts at the rear, and the radio’s locking tabs.

First, retract the radio’s locking tabs. Using a scalpel, carefully cut off the four heat-staked plastic spots. Hold the front panel facing upwards and gently release the plastic retaining tabs at the corners while pushing the faceplate upwards.

⚠️ Important: Keep the front panel facing upwards during removal. If it is tilted or turned over, the small rubber contact pads may fall out.

Pull off the volume knob and the rubber contact pads and set them aside carefully to avoid losing any parts.

Release the two retaining tabs and remove the front panel PCB from its housing:

Release the display PCB connector and pull the flex cable out of the way:

If you do not have a desoldering gun, the simplest way to remove the encoder is to disassemble it.

First, press the metal retaining tabs together from both sides of the encoder using a small flat-head screwdriver or strong tweezers:

Next, cut the three encoder legs and bend the remaining section upward. From the opposite side of the PCB, heat the 2 solder joints and pull the remaining part out. Also remove the 3 cut legs:

Finally, heat the encoder’s metal base from one side and lift it up, then repeat the procedure on the other side to fully remove it. Use a desoldering pump to clean the solder pads:

Install the new encoder using soldering flux and solder all of its pins. Clean off any flux residue and carefully inspect the solder joints to ensure there are no short circuits as nearby components are located very close to the pins:

Reinstall the rubber contact pads and the volume knob, align the four holes with the faceplate heat-staked plastic posts and press the front panel halves back together.

Before melting the four heat-staked plastic posts with a soldering iron, it is recommended to test the front panel functionality, as the posts can only be melted once. Trim any excess melted plastic, as it may prevent the front panel from sitting flush against the radio:

15. Ensure the metal clamps remain fully seated in their pockets while reinstalling the front panel as they can fall out easily. Reconnect the front panel connector and slide the panel down into place. Check that the bottom locating pin passes through the hole. Move the locking tabs slightly forward to prevent the front panel coming loose, reinstall the cassette door lever and verify that the flap opens and closes smoothly.

Position the Bluetooth antenna loosely so that it does not interfere with the moving parts of the cassette mechanism. Avoid attaching it to the metal chassis, as this may cause interference. Reinstall the top lid:

WELL DONE! You have earned the chocolate 🙂